Our 12 Day Safari Adventure in Uganda

Uganda is famous for its gorilla treks. There are only two other countries (Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo) in the world where you can trek through wild jungles to visit these beautiful animals, but Uganda is perhaps the best compromise between accessibility and price of these options. Coming face-to-face with these powerful primates is reason enough to come to Uganda. often, people shoehorn a couple-day trip to Uganda in with their safaris to Tanzania or Kenya.

But there’s a reason Uganda is known as the Pearl of Africa. It’s not just the gorillas.

Uganda offers an unparalleled diversity of landscapes with its network of gorgeous national parks for ample safari opportunities. Between the sanctuaries and parks, you can see the “Big Five” just like in Kenya or Tanzania. While Uganda doesn’t offer the beauty of seeing thousands upon thousands of animals during the Great Migration, it offers you a chance to see sights you won’t in other safari destinations.

You can travel between rich Savannah terrain teeming with giraffes and kob to rolling green hills filled with tea plants overlooking gorgeous lakes to dense jungles where hooting primates make their home and then go white water rafting down the Nile. Plus, it’s only in Uganda where you get the best chances to see Golden Monkeys, chimpanzees, and gorillas on safari. (You can see them all in Rwanda too but it’s more expensive and seeing the Golden Monkeys and chimpanzees is less of a guarantee than in Uganda apparently.)

A Uganda safari is perfect if you want the full on sampler platter of east African wildlife. You won’t forget the landscapes or the animals. Trust us, it’s a one-of-a-kind trip.

But most importantly, if you want the best out of your experience, you’re going to want to do it right. We don’t get any kickbacks for the safaris we’re mentioning; we just want to share what we did and enjoyed.

Safari Inclusions

For our trip to Uganda, we booked a 12 day private safari with Monkey Adventures, which included:

A 4×4 mini-land cruiser
A professional driver/guide
All of our accommodations
All of our activities
Park fees
Trekking permits
Most of our meals
Drinking water (2 liters per person per day)

Our guide Emmanuel, “Emma” for short, was awesome. He knew all the right spots to go to in the parks and his eyes were like a hawk. If you book a tour with Monkey Adventures, you can ask for him by name. He also gave me permission to share his WhatsApp if you’d like to contact him directly (+256 772 662441). We highly recommend paying extra for a driver/guide like Emma if you can because there is no way we would have seen all that we did without him! Driving through the parks is not like walking through a zoo. We saw some other people who looked lost driving through the parks on their own, because it’s huge and there are so many different paths you can take.

Itinerary

Day 1: Entebbe to Jinja (White Water Rafting)

White water rafting on the Nile was insane! We’d been white water rafting before in Colorado, but this was completely different and definitely not for the faint of heart! We went through some pretty big class III, IV, and V rapids. We even flipped over on the first one. I’m pretty sure I had my first and only panic attack.
While the rapids were intense, it may actually be safer than other locations like mountain rivers. The Nile is very deep, so you’re not likely to hit or get caught on rocks or trees under the water.
Everyone is also provided with a helmet and lifevest. And the tour we went on had several experienced kayakers that followed the group to pick up people if they tipped over.
It was definitely scary at times, but if you asked whether I’d do it again the answer is yes. This was a once in a lifetime experience. I mean, how many people can say they’ve done white water rafting on the Nile!

Day 2: Jinja to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary (Rhino Tracking) to Murchison Falls National Park (Visit top of the Falls)

The Rhino Sanctuary was really cool. I can’t believe how close we were able to get to some of them. Probably about 10 or 15 yards away.
Tip: Listen to your guides. When we were there I got spooked when one of the rhinos got up and started to run away, which is the exact opposite of what you’re supposed to do. Too much noise and sudden movements can freak them out and make them more likely to charge. Plus, they may look big and slow, but they’re definitely not and can totally outrun you. Plus most of the time they’re huffing and puffing and standing up, they’re really just checking you out because they can’t see very well. As long as you listen to the guides, you’re good. The rhinos are surprisingly docile.
When we entered Murchison Falls, we were immediately greeted by a troop of baboons. We loved taking pictures of all these family units. Soon enough, you’ll realize those baboons are everywhere along the roads.
Murchison Falls itself (the waterfalls, not just the park) was also a good spot to stop, stretch your legs, get some waterfall pics, and cool off with the mist. It’s pretty awesome being right on top of the falls and witnessing the sheer power of those waters.
Driving into Murchison Falls, you’re also treated with some gorgeous landscapes. Giraffes, leopards, lions (we didn’t see any here), and elephants are the stars of the show, but you’ll see Hartebeasts, Uganda kobs, Bushbucks, oribs, jackals, hyenas, warthogs, and so much more.

Day 3: Murchison Falls National Park (Game Drive, Boat Cruise, & Balloon Safari)

I think it’s cool to do a hot air balloon experience at least once in your life, whether it’s on a safari or elsewhere, because there’s nothing quite like floating in the breeze. It’s a different feeling from being on an observation deck or flying in an airplane or helicopter. You get some interesting views of the animals from above, although most will be scared of the blasting fire carrying the balloon into the air.
The boat cruise was the best way to see the hippos in this park. We got to see an albino hippo, some babies, and one even charged our boat!
We also saw some crocodiles, including one guarding her nest. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see too many. Their habitat has been shrinking due to flooding, so there are fewer spots where they can easily get out of the water, bask in the sun, and lay their eggs.
The launch spot for the boats was home to a lot of warthogs who seem pretty acclimated to people and will roll around next to you in the mud.

Day 4: Murchison Falls National Park to Kibale National Park

We did a final game drive in Murchison falls on our way out to Kibale National Park. It was one of our longer drives, but we got a chance to stop at a food market and have a break in between destinations.
Isunga Safari Lodge in Kibale National Park was one of my favorites. The lodge is up in the mountains, each guest has their own personal bungalow, and the view is absolutely breathtaking. When we got there we ordered a glass of wine and went straight to one of the decks to soak in the view. We only spent one night there, but I wish we had two!

Day 5: Kibale National Park (Chimpanzee Tracking) to Queen Elizabeth National Park (possible Game Drive depending on time of arrival)

Chimpanzee trekking was awesome! I think this may have been my favorite trekking experience because they just seem so humanlike. We saw one leaning back with his hands behind his head and crossing his legs, it looked just like a person relaxing after a long day.
Another cool thing about trekking is the sound. You hear them before you see them. I think hearing them was almost just as exciting as seeing them. The sound gets gradually louder as you approach, and you’re surrounded in a symphony of hoots and hollers.
From our lodgings at Pumba Safari Cottages, we got wonderful views of the savannah. It was a nice way to close out an exciting day after making the drive up to Queen Elizabeth.

Day 6: Queen Elizabeth National Park (Game Drive and Boat Ride) to Ishasha Sector

We saw so many animals here: waterbucks, topis, elephants, buffalo, Ugandan kob, hippopotamus, warthogs, giraffes, leopards, and lions.
If you thought you saw a lot of hippos in Murchison Falls, just wait. This boat ride was awesome. So many hippos! Plus we saw some bathing elephants covering themselves in mud along the shores. It was just another reminder of how huge they are as we drifted by these amazing animals.
Tip: Definitely hire a ranger with the Uganda Carnivore Project when you go. You’re unlikely to see lions if you don’t. If you’re driving on your own you are supposed to stay on the road and are not allowed to go out into the field. If you decide to ignore the rule, you may get lost or end up with a pretty steep fine. But if you go with a ranger you are able to go offroad. They also track the animals (leopards and lions) with a GPS device and take you right to them. We saw a family of about 7 lions (1 adult make, 2 adult females, 2 young lions, and 2 babies), plus a leopard in a tree. Talk to your tour operator to set this up in advance. They’ll know all about this program.

Day 7: Ishasha Sector (Game Drive) to Bwindi National Park

The Ishasha Sector is a part of Queen Elizabeth National Park that is famous for having tree climbing lions. We saw a female lion up in a candelabra tree! Another ranger friend of Emma’s told him about this lion. We were the only vehicle out there to see her. Another great reason why you want a good guide!
Rushaga Gorilla Lodge was another favorite accommodation on our trip. It had stunning views and nice little cottages with balconies. We enjoyed our evening relaxing here.

Day 8: Bwindi National Park (Gorilla Tracking) to Mgahinga National Park

Bwindi National Park has the highest population of mountain gorillas in the world, housing almost half of the remaining population.
You get to be so close to the gorillas! One gorilla even got up, walked right toward Tony, and rolled over about 2 feet in front of him!
The gorillas are habituated to people, so it is very safe, and they limit the number of tourists who can visit each day to not overstimulate them.
We recommend hiring a porter for this. It’s quite a hike. Ours took about 8 hours round-trip and it can get pretty hot. You’re out there all afternoon, so you have to pack food, water, and if you have extra equipment like a camera and lenses it can get pretty heavy.
For people who still want the experience, but are unable to trek through the hills and jungle, you can hire what they call a “Uganda Helicopter,” which is basically a bed carried by a group of 8 men who take shifts in 4. These guys were pros. There was an elderly couple with us on our trek who hired them and their beds always stayed even, despite the lush, uneven terrain.
And oh man, the gorillas. Seeing them up close is why most people come to Uganda. It was a truly memorable experience the first time we saw them. I cannot describe how beautiful it was to be close to animals this big and closely related to us.

Day 9: Mgahinga National Park (Golden Monkey Tracking) to Lake Bunyonyi

We actually almost lost the Golden Monkeys! We had to wait around for a good forty-five minutes while the rangers guiding us tried to get good reception to contact some other rangers tracking the monkeys. For a while, we thought we’d go back to the lodge without a single monkey sighting. But then we finally got the call we’d been waiting for. The monkeys were found!
These little guys are so cute. They have round fluffy little faces and get their name from the golden hue of their fur. They were also pretty active, more so than the chimpanzees or gorillas, and it was cute watching them jump from branch to branch or wrestle with each other on the ground. Some would get really close too so you had ample opportunity to take pictures.

Day 10: Relaxing at Lake Bunyonyi (optional activities, we went to a Pygmy Village)

As far as a place to stay and relax, this was probably one of my favorite stops on the trip.
Lake Bunyonyi is absolutely stunning. It’s a crater lake formed by lava flow some 10,000 years ago, dotted with 29 islands.
We stayed at Lake Bunyonyi Rock Resort, where we had a very nice, spacious room, enjoyed some swimming and kayaking, and had nice meals outside on the deck next to a fire.
We also went to a Batwa Village (colloquially know as the Pygmies) where we saw how they live, joined in some song and dance, bought some handmade souvenirs, and made a donation. Learning about the Batwa people’s plight was also a stark reminder of what we often take for granted in life. While conservation of so many majestic parks and animals in Uganda is good for biodiversity and the environment, unfortunately the Batwa people have become a neglected casualty. So if you do get a chance to support their efforts to establish new lives outside of the parks they’ve been living in for generations, please consider it.

Day 11: Lake Bunyonyi to Mbarara Regional Hospital (Covid testing) to Lake Mburo National Park (Horse Ride)

If you’re like me, then you try to do horseback riding whenever you can. This was probably one of our more enjoyable horseback riding experiences, because we had a little bit more free rein. Most of the time when you do a horseback excursion, you stay in a line and your horse walks at a slow pace, but here we were able to get up to a trot/canter.
Plus, we were in the middle of the African savanna where we were surrounded by zebras, monkeys, impala, topis, waterbucks, buffalo, giraffes, and warthogs. We’ve never done a horseback ride surrounded by so much of the local fauna!
We even saw one buffalo that looked like it had just lost a battle and was missing a horn and a leopard with its zebra dinner up in a tree!

Day 12: Lake Mburo (Game Drive and Nature Walk) to Entebbe

Tony did an early morning nature walk and saw the same leopard from the night before dragging the zebra across the road.
Following breakfast, we took a long drive up to Entebbe to catch our flight. On the way there, we stopped by the equator. Sure, there are kitschy tourist shops everywhere. But if you’ve ever wondering about that whole “does the toilet really flush a different direction in the south versus the north hemisphere”, prepare to get that question settled once and for all!

Accommodations

2 Friends Guest House, Jinja
Pakuba Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls
Isunga Safari Lodge, Kibale National Park
Pumba Safari Cottages, Queen Elizabeth National Park
Rushaga Gorilla Lodge, Bwindi
Lake Bunyonyi Rock Resort, Lake Bunyonyi
Rwakobo Rock, Lake Mburo
BullBush River Camp, Kanungu
Amajambere Iwacu Community Camp, Mgahinga National Park

Final Tips

Spend a little extra and hire a guide. Seriously, it bears repeating. While this was not the cheapest trip we’ve ever taken, the extra money on a guide was worth it. Unless you’re a trained professional, you just are not going to see the amount of wildlife as if you’re with a local guide. Plus, all the guides talk over WhatsApp. So if one sees a leopard (usually a rare sighting), they let the others know.
Perhaps consider spending two nights in Bwindi and two nights in Kibale. With the extra night in Bwindi, you’ll get to relax after the gorillas instead of driving to your next destination. You deserve the rest. Trust me. The area around Kibale also offers cultural activities and some interesting, more relaxing jaunts, like bird-watching and some relatively gentle hikes. We would’ve liked the extra time in these places just to recuperate a lot.
Get used to very early days. The animals are most active in the morning and at night. Problem is most parks close at night (unless you specifically go on a night safari sanctioned by the local rangers). So if you want to see stuff, you’ll need to get up at the butt-crack of dawn. But it’s worth it when you see a leopard going after its prey or a family of zebras happily strolling through the savannah or even some hyenas laughing in the distance.
Bug spray and sunscreen are your friends. So are khaki (or neutral) colored clothing. While we really didn’t have too many issues with bot flies, those buggers are the reason most people wear those safari shades of colors. Long sleeve shirts and pants will help save you from the plants and bugs too, especially during the treks. Lightweight hiking gear is good.
If you’ve ever considered renting or buying a high-powered zoom lens, this is THE time. Tony rented a 200-500 mm lens for his Nikon Z6ii. It was absolutely worth it. Plus that seems to be about the right distance for most of the shots. We even took this lens on the chimpanzee and gorilla trekking to get some good closeups. He also brought an 18-200 mm zoom lens. Now is the time to splurge on camera rentals or purchases. You will not regret it.
Be flexible on accommodations. Remember, sometimes you’re out in the middle of a remote national park. It’s expensive to ship in food and take care of tourists all the way out there. So you may have to spend a little more on accommodations to get some of those creature comforts you’re used to, like hot water, internet, etc. To get a truly 5-star experience, you’ll likely have to shell out the big bucks. All the same, we enjoyed all the places we stayed, and we were firmly in the mid-range budget. Sometimes all you have is a choice between a 1-star family-run hostel and a $400/person-per-night 5-star luxury resort. Let’s just say, in that instance, we went with the hut where someone boiled water to fill up our bucket-fed shower. And it was perfectly acceptable.
Remember, you’re dealing with wildlife. This isn’t Disney. If you come expecting to see a leopard, understand that there is a good chance you might not. The best thing you can do to improve your odds of seeing the animals you want to see is: a) hire a good guide, b) hire rangers involved in animal trekking efforts where able (like Queen Elizabeth Park), and c) get your butt up early in the morning, when the animals are all out and about.
Safaris can be tiring. It’s not a bad idea to budget in some relaxation time. We were glad to have an extra night in Bunyonyi just to chill. Think about how much time you’d like to spend so you’re not just jumping from one place to another if that sounds too exhausting to you.
Enjoy your time in Uganda. It’s certainly a once-in-a-lifetime kind of destination that makes you want to make it a twice- or thrice-in-a-lifetime type of place.

Our 12 Day Safari Adventure in Uganda